We don’t talk nearly enough about dark circles being one of the most uncouth, disrespectful beauty struggles, even more than split ends and bunions. To just show up, uninvited, and sit in the most visible region of your face is honestly giving colonizer energy. Fortunately, because those obnoxious rings of hyperpigmentation have been irking our nerves for centuries, experts have had plenty of time to figure out effective treatment options. We tapped a few heavyweight dermatologists and makeup artists to shed some light on treating dark undereye circles, specifically for deeper skin tones.
Meet the experts:
- Rawn Bosley, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and fellowship-trained dermatologic surgeon based in Texas.
- Dara Spearman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Fort Wayne, Indiana.
- Alexandra Butler is a makeup artist based in Atlanta, Georgia.
- Keita Moore is a makeup artist based in New York, New York.
In this story:
- What causes dark circles?
- How to treat dark circles with dermatologist support
- How to treat dark circles with skin care
- How to cover up dark circles with makeup
What causes dark circles?
Board-certified dermatologist Rawn Bosley, MD, identifies four main categories that can bring about dark circles: inflammation (caused by allergies, eczema, illness, etc.), environmental or extrinsic factors (like excessive sun exposure or sleep deprivation), genetics, and natural aging. Determining the best treatment will ultimately depend on the cause and severity. Dr. Bosley says that darker skin tones are more prone to that first category, specifically, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. That’s theoretically good news, because it means if you treat the underlying condition, you’re likely to minimize the appearance of those pesky circles, too.
However, it’s not always as straightforward as popping a Benadryl. There is often overlap in what causes shadows under your eyes, explains Dr. Bosley. “Dark circles from extrinsic factors or underlying inflammation should be the most straightforward to manage with topical treatments, as one may assume if you prevent the cause, you can reduce the effect,” he says. “However, intrinsic factors such as your genetics and natural aging often complicate the process.”
To increase your chances of seeing improvement, Dr. Bosley recommends combining both topical treatments and in-office procedures, as a doctor can more precisely identify the cause and best treatment for all types of dark circles. “For an ideal correction of dark circles, we typically aim to not only correct pigment, but to improve skin quality and restore areas lacking volume to reduce shadowing,” Dr. Bosley says.
How to treat dark circles with dermatologist support
Dara Spearman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and owner of Radiant Dermatology Associates in Fort Wayne, Indiana, tells Allure that microneedling, chemical peels, laser therapy, and other in-office procedures can be used to “help improve the skin and its texture,” which is especially helpful when dark circles are the result of eczema or a condition that causes someone to chronically rub their eyes, which can lead to a “thickened texture” under the eyes. Your dermatologist will be able to recommend the ideal treatment plan for you and your dark circles, which might also include putting in some skin-care work at home.
How to treat dark circles with skin care
When it comes to skin care that can help with dark circles, Dr. Spearman suggests “products that contain retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide, and caffeine, as these ingredients can lighten pigmentation, boost collagen production, and reduce irritation and inflammation.” You don’t necessarily need to find an eye cream with all four. All of these ingredients have some degree of lightening or brightening benefits, so look for products that contain at least one of them.
