Dobos encourages consumers to look for brands that share “quantitative data from instrumental measurements,” like a potential change in wrinkle depth. “Are there any clinical studies that the manufacturer is providing that look beyond the claims that are just ‘visible difference’?” Dobos asks. “They’re always like, ‘98% of consumers saw improvement in just one use.’ Any moisturizer makes your skin look better after one use. Don’t expect quick results—look for the duration of time.”
Certain medical-grade skin-care brands do prove their products live up to their claims. For example, they might subject their products to single-case (a study of just one person or group over time) or double-blind (where neither study participants nor the researchers know which product or treatment the participants are getting) studies under the guidance of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Says Dr. Gohara, “They may be biopsying the skin to look at how much collagen is there or they may be looking at stains in the skin and taking histological data to prove that the effect that you want, which is more collagen, more hyaluronic acid, decreased sun damage, is actually happening.”
This data is not always readily available, but some brands do publish it in peer-reviewed journals or on their websites. “Medical-grade skin-care brands often highlight independent research or dermatologist-led trials, so checking company websites, medical literature, or even reaching out to the brand for study details, can be helpful,” Dr. Gohara notes.
Who is medical-grade skin care best for?
Dr. Gohara typically recommends medical-grade skin-care products for patients dealing with acne, fine lines, and rosacea, but she doesn’t consider it the be-all and end-all of the skin-care world. “Do I think there’s a place for medical-grade skin care? Absolutely. I think it’s more efficacious, more cosmetically elegant, and I think there’s more science behind it,” she explains, citing vitamin C as a great ingredient for medical-grade skin care, given its finicky nature and instability. “But it’s also more expensive, and for us to live in the real world, that can’t be the only platform.”
She continues, “As a dermatologist I can’t be totally myopic, thinking that everybody can afford a $150 bottle of serum…. We have to find alternatives that may not be ‘medical grade,’ but are still scientifically sound—and I do that all the time.” For this purpose, she says, her go-to brands are usually the “fancy French drugstore alternatives” La Roche-Posay, Vichy, and Avène.
At the end of the day, Dr. Gohara says, she’s a “huge proponent” of a “diligent and good skin-care routine” as the true foundation for better skin, regardless of price point or formulation. “Here’s the thing with skin care,” she explains. “Your return on investment is hard to see. I think skin care holds a major place, because it’s like the anchor to skin health. The sunscreen, the antioxidant, the retinoid—it’s like flossing and brushing your teeth.”
